Piura, Peru

I am sorry, faithful blog followers! I have shirked my duties. The past few weeks have been my busiest yet. I am about to start a chain of catch-up posts, so you can know what I have been up to.

Piura, Peru must be one of the most wonderful places in the world. After three years of waiting and hoping to return someday, it felt completely unreal to finally get there. There is no way to express the exact feeling of being in this place, but I will try to give you a glimpse of the city through my experience over a week there.

To begin the story of the trip, I should probably start with where it started for me: the night before. As usual, I was packing at the very last minute the night before our flight to Lima. The week leading up to the trip was just so hectic that I hadn't really realized that I was going to Peru until this point. Javi helped me pack, and at 2:30 am I finally headed to Megans house to spend the last two hours of the night before our taxi came at 4:30 am. Luckily she was also up doing last minute spanish homework and packing! Two hours later, we got to the airport somewhat buzzed off of the lack of sleep. Megan and I bought a bar of chocolate and managed to eat almost the entire thing while waiting at the gate. The mix of chocolate and no sleep made us absolutely ridiculous, and poor Eric had to deal with us for hours as we waited.

I slept throughout the flight, and arrived in Lima a bit calmer. Of course, there was another chocolate/pastry place in the airport and Megan and I got a large amount of ice cream and apple pie, to Eric's dismay. After a long layover, we finally boarded the plane- only to be called off of it a few minutes later. Unfortunately, we had failed to realize that our Chilean watches were not correct in Peru, and in fact this was not our flight! (Although somehow they'd accepted our boarding passes...) How embarrassing! Good way to start off the trip.

Arriving in Piura was, as I said, completely unreal. Matt, Victor, Jose, and new workers from the church came to pick us up with a big welcome sign at the airport, and in a few moments we were immersed in the city, cruising down the dusty roads in the back of their pickup truck. The hazy roads, the colorful clotheslines, the people sweeping their doorsteps, the crumbling, colorful paint of the dilapidated houses, children's cries of "gringos!", the rickshaws filling the streets, the cries of street vendors, the dry desert wind in the back of the truck, carrying the familiar smells of firewood, street food, and that indescribable Piura smell, all hit me with the feeling of coming home to something after many years of absence. Even more strange was entering the church, which for years I had seen only through the webcam on the wall. After talking for a while with Matt and Victor, we headed upstairs to our rooms. That night we ate at the church, and went to mass, where I saw a few old friends, and said a quick hello to Father Joe afterwards. luckily, I was exhausted, or else I never would have been able to go to sleep that night.

The next day we went right to our volunteer work. Megan, Eric and I were sent to the new hospice for terminally ill patients, where we helped to care for them for a few hours. It wasn't easy work, but it was really rewarding. I had the job of giving haircuts to all of them, which was really fun! The men commented to each other that they looked handsome like Robin Hood.

That night, my family (the one we've sponsored and been pen pals with) showed up at mass! It was amazing to finally see them again, and I was so excited to meet Karen's new baby Luhana, and her husband Teo! We talked for a long time after church, and caught up on the last three years.

The next few days really blend together. Our volunteer activities were all really fun. We went to the kids' Vacation Bible School to help hand out drawing supplies, play games, and play outside with them, which was really fun, and also visited a girls' home/orphanage, where we later returned to bring a huge amount of food that we bought at the open market. The girls showed us their home, sang songs for us, and did a dance they learned in class. Later we all had a dance party. The girls were incredibly sweet- it was so hard to leave! My new friends Tania and Esther gave me really sweet cards when we left. Eric was a heartbreaker- many girls burst into tears when he left!

Another day, I went out with Matt, Karen, Karla, and Luhana to buy Luhana a jumper and other supplies. It was so much fun! We also visited a beautiful church and monument in the center of the city. Later int he day Megan, Eric and I got building supplies for the next day's activity, and packed food to deliver to people's houses in the outskirts of the city. I love delivering food packages- it is such an incredible experience to be able to go into people's homes in the desert and talk with them for a little while. People are always so thankful and really nice and welcoming, although sometimes I feel guilty, because I am hardly doing enough to warrant such appreciation! I feel that I am getting an equal amount out of it, really. In the end, I think people in Piura are particularly welcoming to "gringos" because of all of the donations the city gets through the church (1,400 families in Piura are sponsored by families in the US) but also, I feel like the people of Piura are just really nice, good, welcoming people.

On the other hand, a few things really threw me off at the beginning of the trip. A few of my good friends who worked at the church before are no longer there due to some scandal, and I was basically not allowed to see them. It's a long complicated story, but basically it was really sad that something like this happened, and even sadder not to be able to see my friends. I guess no person and no place is perfect. I hope it all gets sorted out and I get to see them again next time.

On the 7th, we delivered more food packages, and built a new part to somebody's house. I've never done so much sawing and construction. It was a great experience, and so cool to see the finished product! Later, as usual, the Lachiras (my family) came to mass with us, but afterwards my little brother Jorge David, Megan, Eric and I decided to join the altar boys for a soccer game. We had a fantastic time, and played for hours until we were all exhausted. What a great night.

The 8th was our last day in Piura. I was really sad to go, but there was so much going on that I didn't have much time to think about it! It was Karla's birthday, so after going to the open market (sooo cool) to get supplies for the girls' home and buy a cake, we all went to a movie together and got ice cream afterwards. It was so much fun to hang out with our friends and my family. Afterwards, we went to mass for the last time, and had a surprise cake and jello party for Karla, Teresa, and Eric. (Eric's birthday is the 9th, and Teresa's is the 13th.) We invited all the staff and soccer boys, and had a fun, crazy time before leaving. We also learned a new tradition- cracking an egg over the head of the person with the birthday, and then throwing flour over them! What a MESS! Apparently it is also traditional for despedidas (going away parties): An hour or so before leaving, Megan, Eric and I were covered in raw egg and flour. It was grossss! We quickly showered and headed off for the bus in the back of the truck. I was very sad to say goodbye to everyone, but it helped that Matt decided to come to Trujillo for the next day with us! I just hope that I see everyone there again before another three years or more pass.

Next entry on our visit to Trujillo coming soon!

Tear Gas

...it hurts. A LOT.

I was walking to class on Thursday- one of the days that I knew there would be a paro, but had to go to class anyways for a personal lesson from my video professor- and was hurrying to the campus from the bus stop. Suddenly, I noticed a burning smell, and looked up to see that a tree by the sidewalk was scorched black, and the ashes of many papers were scattered all over the road. Just as I was contemplating this, I turned the corner to see two large tanker trucks, and a huge line of policemen lining the road ahead. they were spraying a fire hose into the campus. My first thought was "man, how am I going to get to my class?" But this sentiment quickly passed as I noticed that the high pressure hose was being sprayed at students. They were hiding behind trees and falling when the hose reached them. In shock, I asked a woman what had happened as she rushed past me. "What always happens" she responded, and hurried away. Looking around, I suddenly noticed people with masks on, rushing away from the scene. At the same time that I realized what was happening, it hit me. My eyes started burning with an incredible intensity, and the air suddenly felt like poison in my nose and throat. I immediately started rushing away, but the breeze carried the gas far away from the campus. I broke into a full out sprint all the way back to the bus stop, trying to cover my face with my sleeve. On the bus, the air coming in the windows eventually helped to clear the air, but most of the people on it were red-eyed and coughing. I tried to wipe my eyes and breathe through my shirt, but everything I did seemed to make the burning worse. It finally stopped after about half an hour on the bus. I decided to go shopping afterwards, and found a fantastic new store near my house, which was wonderful and greatly improved my mood. I later found out that there had been a "toma" at the faculty, which means that the students locked themselves into the campus in protest. I still don't know exactly what they were protesting against- I think it had to do with getting more scholarships- but I am learning that Chilean students find many opportunities to protest. I technically shouldn't have had any classes this week due to the protests in my different faculties! I'm a little resentful, since I enjoy my classes and am now quite clear on the fact that I don't enjoy tear gas.

So, that is my adventure story of the week. Hopefully the next one is a bit less painful!

This week: Piropos, Paros, and Peru

What a busy week. It started out with Rebecca here- we spent Monday together, and she came to my Spanish class. Later we went to my apartment and she met my host fam! She fit right in... we tried to convince her to stay, but unfortunately she already had a plane ticket to Arica. She, Javi and I all went to see "Plan B" afterwards, which was very funny. We got there about 20 minutes late, but in accordance with Chilean time, the movie started just as we got into the theater. Love Chilean time.

Tuesday morning Rebecca and I climbed Cerro Santa Lucia. It was very beautiful! I will post photos once they get on my computer. After the climb, the personal M. Ferrill Orientation ended, and Rebecca headed off to start her own abroad adventure!

The next few days consisted of:

Peru:

Lots and lots of planning for Peru this week! It is an epic trip, but one that requires somewhat impossible planning. It seems like it will work out though...

Piropos:

Just thought I'd throw this in here since it's a part of daily life in Chile. A lot of whistling goes on here. Piropos are birds, but the word is used for men who make a similar sound. Some girls are really offended by it, but I mostly find it amusing. This week, I found the root of the whistling epidemic: Mothers. I was sitting in the bus the other day, and a group of women with a baby came to sit near me. The baby was looking at me for a while, and I smiled back... and then his mother started making whistling sounds and trying to teach him to whistle at me!!! Haha definitely one of the funniest moments of the week!

Paros:

Student protests at the different University faculties, where students refuse to go to classes. Unfortunately, as US students we still have to go to class, since the professors are still required to show up. I encountered three of these classes this week- one ended in a personal lesson in documentary making, another ended in me sitting in an empty classroom for a while and leaving, and the third... well, we'll get to the third in the next blog entry.

I think the only major thing not encompassed by these three words this week is my work. I went on Wednesday night with Megan and Becca, and we had a great time playing dominos and hanging out with some of the men. In the coming weeks we will be organizing events and things to do with them, but this week we were still getting to know them. I found out that one of the guys is really crazy this week.... we were talking about something very coherent and normal, and suddenly he started telling me about artichokes, and repeating the words "cigarette" and "South Africa" and "walnut." Oh, my adventures at work.

Week of Journaling: Day 7

Well, we've come up to the last day of the journaling week, folks. However, I've actually really enjoyed writing so often- it's such a good way to reflect on the days that I might keep it up.

Today, I woke up early and packed my bag to meet Rebecca Edelberg at her hotel, where she'd just arrived from the airport!!! I got to the hotel a little early (shocking I know) and decided to try to surprise her, but my impression of a hotel room cleaner at the door didn't convince her. She knows me too well!

After the shock of seeing each other started to wear off and we could stop hugging each other, we walked over to the Tufts office to join the bus tour to Valparaiso. There we spent the day on a guided tour through the city, and on a boat! I generally don't like being part of a tour- I have this thing against looking like a tourist, and it is impossible to blend in/ become invisible when you are in a large group with a tour guide dressed in bright red shouting out the history of the city. That said, I have already been to Valparaiso on my own, and having the tour helped me to appreciate some of the history and other parts of the city that I hadn't known about. Going on the boat was really fun too! All the time I continued to be in minor shock that Rebecca was sitting next to me. It's so great to see her again, and so strange and wonderful to have a piece of home here in Santiago with me. After Valparaiso, we were thinking of trying to get tickets at the door to the Daddy Yankee concert (I am secretly obsessed) but decided against it since it's very far away, expensive, possibly sold out, and I happen to have class tomorrow. Instead, we went out to a little diner place for dinner, where I ordered the most greasy, unhealthy meal I have ever seen by accident and they played a bunch of strange 80's music videos on the TV. We had a great time. When we asked the waiter about the music, he tried hard to make sure that we knew it wasn't his music, so of course we insisted that it must be. "Me gusta la musica ROCK" he kept trying to convince us... but we wouldn't have it. We wrote a list of 80's music videos from home that he should check out and he promised he would.

Now we're back at the hotel, catching up on life and hopefully trying to do some homework. Luckily she has some too... unluckily it is hard to work when one of your long lost best friends is in the room!

Week of Journaling: Day 6

Today was a slow day that went fast. Meaning: I spent a lot of time doing nothing. But it was the good type of nothing- my host sister just broke up with her boyfriend of four years, and had an awful test early in the morning, so when she came back I made her pancakes and we opened up the NH maple syrup I brought as a host gift. It was a nice morning and it was great to spend some time with Javi and Claudia.

In the afternoon I went to Patronato, a street/area lined with very cheap clothing and shoe stores. I had never actually been there, though I'd been in the area often (it's near La Vega) and was amazed by the overwhelming amount of clothing! I bought new ballet flats, a shirt, and a dress. Very exciting. After shopping I tried to go buy a guitar AGAIN, but the shops were closed early. Arrg. I keep being thwarted in my guitar-buying expeditions! I came home early and did homework for the rest of the night. I know, quite a Saturday night. I'm trying to be proactive, since I know I am going to want to spend all of my time with Rebecca over the next few days!!!

I am meeting up with Rebecca TOMORROW MORNING! I'm suuuper excited. I will be staying in a hotel with her near Santa Lucia in the center of the city for a few days. With that in mind, I'm off to finish my homework...

Week of Journaling: Day 5

I'm home early today! Funny to say that- it's almost 10pm but everyone stays out so late here, even if it's just for work. (For example, my work. Such a strange concept to start work at 7:30pm.)

Today I woke up early to go to the Tufts office to plan out my trip to Peru with Megan and Eric. It's going to be so amazing! We are basically traveling on buses and trains all the way along the coast of the country from the North to the South over two weeks, with cool stops along the way. I can't wait! We'll be playing some of it by ear, so chances are our plans might change over time, but whatever we end up doing will be a great adventure for sure!

After trip planning I met up with Paige and Thomas from my spanish class to take a tour around the city and take pictures of specific places to present in class. It turns out that the area we were assigned included La Vega! It was sooo strange to go back during the day and see it all full of life. I bought a delicious pomegranate in the market and ate it along the journey. Yum.

I attempted to find a guitar again today, but failed. Shall try again tomorrow. My trip to the poblacion La Victoria was cancelled for tomorrow (story of this week!) so I have a little free time. Good thing, since I have a bunch of homework to do too. AND Rebecca Edelberg is coming on Sunday!!!!!!! I can't wait! We'll be going to Valparaiso on a tour with the Tufts group all day, which should be really fun, but I'm mostly just thrilled to see her! I remember planning her visit so long ago- I can't believe she's coming so soon.

(Estacion Mapocho, an old train station)

I had a big moment today. I was walking past an art gallery in this enormous old train station, and saw these gorgeous, huge paintings of landscapes in brilliant colors. I felt really regretful that I hadn't been able to paint in a long time. Then it suddenly dawned on me that I probably have the large majority of my life ahead of me. That's a very long time. If I felt like it, I could choose to spend years in Italy painting and working in a pastry shop. Then I could spend years doing some other crazy thing that I decide I love. Just think about all the things you can do in a lifetime! It's so exciting!

Week of Journaling: Day 4

Well, technically this is day 5, as it is currently 3:30am.

This morning I woke up late because my first class was cancelled, and then found out that my second class was cancelled too due to a student protest against educational reforms. Somehow I managed to spend the entire day lounging around in the house! I think I need much more rest here, since I spend so much energy thinking in Spanish each day, and then once in a while I throw in days like these where I don't sleep until early the next morning.

Anyways, I went to work again at 6:30pm today. This time I went alone, which seemed like it might feel a little sketchy at night but ended up being fine. When I got to Nuestra Casa, I helped to prepare sandwiches, tea and hot chocolate, and then a large group of residents and volunteers headed out for La Vega to give them out to the people living on the street there.

Handing out the food and drinks was a really different experience. It allowed me to see a part of the city I would otherwise never venture to at night, and definitely broke down the barrier between me and the people I pass on the streets during the day. It was so against my instinct to knock on one of those cardboard boxes, or awaken someone sleeping under a blanket. It is so against the normal city culture to break into this hidden world, but that is what this night was all about. It felt so unreal.

La Vega is a very lively area during the day, full of vendors selling fruits and vegetables and clothing and every random supply one could want. At night it is dismal and echoing, full of smoke and burning trash and the occasional people calling out to each other in the haze. A group of guys was playing soccer, and some kids and dogs were playing in the street, but apart from that the streets were mostly quiet and deserted. All of the storefronts that look colorful and charmingly dilapidated in the day became foreboding and gloomy at night, their doors locked and barred. The group I was with consisted of men from the house, a couple volunteering adults, and several 16-18 year olds who had obviously volunteered here many times before, as they knew many of the people on the street well. I talked to them as we traveled between cardboard box dwellings and heaped blankets, handing out the sandwiches. I met a sweet little girl named Myriam who lives on the street with her mom and brothers, and we played with her for a while. So strange to think about the kind of life she has there.

The most bizarre moment of the night happened toward the beginning, when we approached a large cardboard construction and offered bread, and out jumped a man dressed as a gypsy woman. (S)he wore shining blue makeup and many enormous earrings, and had hair that stood on end as (s)he wildly ran about wielding and twirling a large stick like a baton and yelling "QUIEN FUE!?" ("Who was it?!") Finally, after a whole lot of stomping about and muttering, the gypsy returned to the house, and I breathed a large sigh of relief. My new volunteer friends told me that (s)he thinks that the house moves on a caravan and travels each day. All together, I think I would sum up this experience as very overwhelming, a little entertaining at times, and sad at others. I am both excited and apprehensive about my next trip there.

(Photos above are of La Vega in the daytime. The second one is very near where we were handing out bread.)

We left at 10pm, and two of the volunteer men took me back on the subway. I then met up with some friends to go to a club with Layla's visiting Chilean cousin, which was a very weird experience after the one that I had just had. They played a lot of reggae and rock. I was pretty mentally exhausted from the past few hours, so I ended up leaving a little early. What a day!